Gezuar

I’ve had a bit of the sauce while celebrating my friend Endrit’s Birthday (ditelindje). I don’t see this as a problem as much as an opportunity to touch on Albanian drinking customs that I have experienced.

I believe the best of these customs is the single shot of Raki with coffee in the morning. I, on occasion, enjoy this custom with my host father or with another male host family member such as an uncle or great uncle. I typically refuse the Raki from my host mother (Rezarta), but when I go outside on the balcony to join my host father (Sali) there is, if by mystic Albanian magic, a shot of Raki next to my Turkish Kafe. S’ka problem (no problem). The combination of caffeine and alcohol is a pleasant mix to me right after waking up and to many of my (male) volunteer colleagues. One thing I enjoy about this custom is (at least in my house) the complete moderation with which it is enjoyed. In my host family’s circle it is understood that a little Raki is good for you (how could a custom as old as this not be beneficial?) and a lot is unacceptable and frowned upon.

Raki, for those that don’t know, is a clear liquor made from grapes that can, depending on the distiller, be light and easy or strong and quickly evaporating. Most people in the villages make their own. My village is well known for having a strong and flavorful Raki. I like it a lot. It’s a little oily which allows it to stay smooth even when it’s strong.

I was given a twelve ounce bottle of the jet fuel variety when I left town last week as a parting gift and as something to share with my friends elsewhere. Again, as with all things, my host family took my short trip as an opportunity to demonstrate their unyielding obligation to be more than generous to their host son.

Of course, on the bus from Elbasan (major city closest to my village) to Durres (biggest port in the country) I didn’t need to open my bottle because other host sons were given similar parting gifts that very morning. This might be a good time to mention that I didn’t notice or observe any women in possession of such goodbye presents. Nor did any female volunteers want to partake in our mid morning taste. I say that only to note the differences in gender expectations in Albania and also illustrate that liberal American females and Albanian conservative ideas in terms of gender were, in this situation, on the same page.

I went to a wedding a week ago today and as far as drinking went you were expected to drink every time someone issued a cheers (Gezuar). If you didn’t want to drink alcohol it was acceptable to drink soda or juice and if you were drinking, but didn’t want to get sauced then you could fill your glass with the smallest amount possible and drink that only when obligated. This is what happened at our table as the Americans present issued many gezuars to our middle aged Albanian friends who didn’t want drink as much, as quickly. There was also a roving band of gezuar-ers who went from table to table issuing wishes to the new couple and to the health of all in attendance. Beers seemed to magically appear on queue and it was seen as quite odd that we only stayed for four and a half hours. The next wedding I go to I will be the first there and last to leave because there was a certain amount of shame involved in leaving early.

It hasn’t ever happened to me, but occasionally a person might get into a fergon (a “minibus which is actually a mid 90’s ford or chevy van outfitted to hold 10-12 people) and the driver might take a shot of Raki before leaving town or might have to stop to puke a couple of times during the journey. I have been on fergons where passengers were obviously tanked, but I have never to my knowledge been on a fergon where the driver was housed drunk. It’s difficult to tell if a fergon driver is drunk because if you’re a good fergon driver you’re driving fast and at least a little reckless. My driver tonight was a beast and he literally got me home in half the time that most driver’s take. He passed this fool in a Mercedes (going 20) on a blind corner and I really felt like he deserved a tip for it. If someone makes a fergon driving video game I think American audiences would eat it up. I think about being a fergon driver after my two years is up.

Another interesting note about Albanian alcohol is Ponc (pronounced “panch”) which is a terrible mix of Raki and cough syrup. Terrible, just awful. I’m sure lil’ wayne would love it, but that don’t make it right.

In other news, I was elected to the Volunteer Advisory Committee (VAC) by the group 13 health education volunteers. It was a come from behind victory, but through a mix of nominating myself, hiring a campaign manager, viral text messaging and bribes I won. I found out later that I was the only person who campaigned in any way shape or form, but I won and that’s all the matters. Winning is winning. I’ll touch on this more later.

I also took my language test a couple days ago and I think I passed so I won’t be getting shipped back to the states with my tail between my legs. I also ended my training self assessment report by saying that my commitment to serve is such that the only way I won’t complete my two years of service is if I die. I am looking forward getting feedback on that during my final training interview next week. Speaking of which…

In less than a week I will be sworn in as an official Peace Corps Volunteer and despite our peaceful stance I will be obligated to protect the United States from all enemies, both foreign and domestic…so Osama, IF you’re still alive and out there, stay in that cave and cower behind your dialysis machine son! I’ve got vacation days coming and I might find you and have to get down to some brass tacks. All jokes aside, I’m looking forward to completing training and starting work up in Peshkopi.

Thanks for reading. Feedback and questions are, as always, encouraged.